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Blog » November in the Garden

POSTED 03 November 2015 BY Our Gardening Advisor

 

Jobs In the Garden In November

This month is ideal for planting new fruit trees and bushes if the ground is not too wet or frosted yet.You can now sow over wintering broad beans outside in well-drained areas or in pots if you have an unheated greenhouse.

Planting

November is the best time to plant tulip bulbs for a superb and colourful display next spring. Lily bulbs can also be planted in pots this month and in the vegetable patch there is still time to plant garlic cloves.

Bare-roots roses can be planted from November to March during the dormant season. It allows the plants to establish rapidly and efficiently thanks to the soil moisture. Bare roots plants also have the advantage to be more economical as they are less expensive than pot-grown roses.

Before planting your roses, prepare the soil with manure or well-rotted organic matter. Mix a least one-bucket per square metre and fork it into the top 20 or 30cm of soil. Next, we advise applying a general fertiliser over the planting area and forking it in at the same depth as the organic matter or compost/manure.

For each rose, dig a hole of the depth of a garden spade’s blade and approximately twice the width of the plants’ roots. Then, place the rose at the centre of the hole and use a cane across the top of the hole to evaluate the soil level around the plant. Ensure the graft union (where the cultivar joins the rootstock and the point where the branches grow) is at soil level and not below as it increases risk of rose dieback.

Once done, you can fill the hole back gently with the soil and the organic matter mixture.

If you are replacing old roses with new ones, make sure you dig out more soil and exchange it with a different soil from a different part of your garden. Planting new roses in the same soil as the old ones might encourage replant disease, also called soil sickness.

Winter bedding is a short-term planting and allows you to be creative with your garden each year. Winter bedding is a very easy way to put colour into your garden for the autumn and winter, filling the space left by the summer flowering plants. It can be done in borders, hanging baskets, patio containers or can also be used to fill gaps in perennial and shrub borders. Bedding plants can be grown from seeds but these have to be brought on in the summer months and transplanted in the autumn. Many gardeners prefer to buy the plants already in flower in trays or pots as they are widely available in the early autumn.

Wallflowers, forget-me-nots, pansies, primrose, violas and other spring flowering plants can also be planted into well-prepared ground or in pots containing suitable compost.

Avoid over-watering your plants that are still in active growth. Only water little but often

Pruning

Pruning of many deciduous trees, shrubs (i.e. trees or shrubs that lose their leaves seasonally) and hedges can be done from now and throughout the dormant season. When branches have no more leaves, pruning is easier as you can see better what you are doing. Avoid pruning tender plants and Prunus species such as ornamental cherries, plums and almonds as they are more susceptible to silver leaf when they are pruned in autumn and winter.

If not done already, it is still time to prune bush and climbing roses to prevent wind-rock.

Tie wall shrubs and climbers onto their supports in order to protect them from the wind during winter. Simply prune off any branches that grow and go out of the support.

Harvesting

In November, parsnips are ready to lift when their foliage start to die down. Some say harvesting after the first frosts might sweeten up their tastes. Use a fork to lift them carefully.

Leeks can be harvested by simply pulling them up gently when soil is loose. If you face a heavy soil you could injure the roots by pulling the leeks. Use a garden fork instead to reach the roots and lift the leeks. Leeks can remain in the ground through winter and be harvested when needed.